All arrows are hand crafted by myself. As far as construction and how well they fly, they are the best arcows that anyone can make. I do not make what some people call “practice” arrows (Which is the code for cheap, poorly made arrows).

Many archers want cheap arrows to “practice” with, because they might loose or break them. If you have good arrows that go where you aim them, then you will find them in the target (or close to it). If you practice with bad arrows, you are practicing to miss and that is a waste of time.

The simplest arrows that I make are a fair price and they will fly straight - I promise.

Shafts

My standard arrows are made of premium grade Northern Pine, which is an excellent, sturdy and straight arrow shaft. Diameters are 5/16" (7.9 mm) for spines from 25# to 45#, and 11/32" (8.7 mm) for spines from 50# to 65#. Heavier spines come in 23/64" (9.1 mm) diameter.

I also can supply arrows in cedar or hemlock (a personal favorite) for a little more money. For heavy hunting arrows, or heavy bows, I also have a limited stock of maple and ash in 23/64" (9.1 mm) diameter in spines from 60# to 100#. Shafts can also be tapered in the rear.

Spine

Shafts are spined and weight matched by hand. The term “Spined & Weight Matched” is used so often nowadays, that it has almost become meaningless. My arrows are really hand spined within 2# of each other and weight matched to a tolerance of 15 grains. This is guaranteed. Very often, I am able to make dozens that are exactly the same.

Normally, I spine arrows for wooden bows 10# less than the draw weight of the bow. Arrows for modern bows that are made with fiberglass reinforcement are spined 10# more than the draw weight. This is my rule of thumb. If you want a certain spine, just ask for it and I will make your arrows whatever spine that you want.

Fletching

I use the best grade of natural white or dyed turkey feathers. You can also have gray barred turkey or gray or white goose feathers for a little bit more money. Normally, I do not use the immitation barred feathers. Of course, if you want these, I can get them.

Fletching is straight/offset; the degree of offset depending on the use of the arrows. I do not use the die cut feathers that factories offer. I use full length feathers and I burn my feathers to my own shapes. Therefore, I have many traditional shapes that are not found anywhere else. I grind the base of every feather myself and taper the front of each feather into the shaft, so there is no sharp edge on the feather to cut your hand.

Finishing

Shafts are left their natural colour, or are stained with the colour of your choice:

• walnut
• ebony
• oak

If the shafts are stained, they are polished with sandpaper and steel wool to bring out the grain of the wood (I learned this from a furniture maker long ago). All shafts are sealed with a clear protective lacquer.

Cresting

Crests are painted by hand and can be my design or yours. I encourage you to design your own crest and I will keep it in my book for your exclusive use, as was done by the english fletchers of old.

I hope that from this short description you will understand the time & attention to detail that goes into every dozen arrows that I make. All arrows are custom / made to order. You can look at the galleries to get an idea of what I have made before. But you are not limited to what you see in the galleries, as I can make anything you want.

“There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply. The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.”